July 31, 2012

To the Top of Europe and Beyond

Switzerland really outdid itself for our fourth weekend extravaganza. 
Blown away by larger than life mountaintops, we traveled to Berner Oberland nestled in the depths of the Swiss Alps at the Top of Europe

We took a cozy train from Basel to Interlaken, transferred onto an adorable cogwheel train to Lauterbrunnen, boarded a stomach dropping gondola ride up a mountain side, embarked on another cogwheel train and finally landed in the car-free village of Murren.



We arrived Thursday night and stayed at the Hotel Alpina.
Not a bad view, eh?


Friday was a bit cloudy in and around Murren but we headed up past the clouds to 
Schilthorn and the rotating restaurant called Piz Gloria.
Fun fact: the 1969 James Bond movie, On Her Majesty's Secret Service, was filmed here. Can't say that I recall this Bond all that well...sorry James...



Just above the clouds.


It was breathtaking!



We spent most of the day there just taking in the view.


We grabbed a delicious traditional Swiss lunch inside the rotating Piz Gloria. 



As we were getting ready to head back down to earth, we were told that some technical difficulties with the cable cars had been detected and that we had to catch the last car down at 4:30pm. 
So we did just that. 
We took the gondola down to the Birg station and waited to take the last leg to Murren. 


Unfortunately, that was the end of our trip down the mountain via cable car; for the first time in 40 years, one of the cable wheels had given out and the only way down was to hike. This was conveyed after they realized they wouldn't be able to get a helicopter to take us down due to bad weather - bummer, a helicopter ride would have been nice!

The cable car operators-turned-guides handed out water, bags of chips, apples, and safety blankets to our pack of about 50. It almost seemed like a scene from a movie as we began our slow and careful descent down the mountain.


Fortunately, it wasn't a strenuous hike and there were proper trails to lead the way down along with our new guides. The misfortune was that it started to rain not long after we started our 2 hour journey. 


Once we reached the bottom the Swiss did as they do best, with keen attention to detail and organization, they swiftly accounted for everybody and took down our contact information so they could compensate us for the trouble. All of this over a nice hot meal. 

Well done. That's me doing the well done dance...


That next day we welcomed the continued rain as it blanketed Murren with a damp grey cover and the mountains with fresh snow. To make the most of the indoors, we enjoyed a morning swim in our new hotel, Hotel Eiger, and then set out on a self-guided tour of Murren and it's pubs.






We ended the chilly day with a hearty pot of fondue!


On our final day in the Berner Oberland it was to the Top of Europe or bust. The rain subsided and the clouds parted and we made the 6 hour round-trip to Jungfrau at over 11,388 feet.



The journey to the top was beautiful. Here's a view of the Lauterbrunnen valley.

The other small car-free village, Wengen. 

Everywhere you looked there were cows wearing their chiming cowbells.




Jungfrau





The clouds would swoop in at any minute. It was freezing up there!


The building at the top of Jungfrau had several activities to enjoy along with restaurants that had epic views.

There was an ice center with ice sculptures and fun passageways.




We enjoyed the best leek soup with mountain cheese at the Crystal Restaurant.


Berber Oberland is one of the most beautiful natural places we've ever visited, we're so thankful for this weekend and the opportunity to enjoy its loveliness.....despite getting stuck on top of a mountain!




July 25, 2012

Ooh La La Vevey!

Quaint, romantic, colorful, and French. This describes the mesmerizing little town of Vevey, Switzerland. Located on Lake Geneva, we cozied ourselves right in to this inviting retreat for our third weekend in Switzerland.

On the 13th of July, which just so happened to be a Friday, I took a 3 hour morning train ride from Basel to Vevey. There at the station I was greeted by a lovely woman named Antoinette. Antoinette walked us 10 minutes to her adorable flat overlooking Lake Geneva. 
She made sure I had everything I needed and then was off. This was our home for the weekend, Antoinette's apartment, thanks to the superb site, airbnb - a must try!

The view from the living room.
(France is on the other side of the lake)


Brian was scheduled to meet me that evening once he finished with work, so I took in the town and became acquainted with French speaking Switzerland....oui, voila!

The name of our street.

 

Walking along the promenade circling Lake Geneva.


Swans! Voila!


Rich colors existed everywhere, from the flower boxes, to the buildings, and the sidewalks; everything was manicured beautifully by the Swiss.


Brian arrived that evening and brought some of the rain from Basel, yet we still enjoyed a drink outside underneath a patio umbrella along this adorable street near our dwelling.


Our focus that weekend had been intended for the popular Montreux jazz festival, but after reviewing the lineup, to our surprise no jazz performers were playing, only pop artists. Instead we opted for the morning Folklore festival, exploring Vevey, and a train ride to the mountains.

What's a traditional Swiss Folklore festival without local wines?! We each purchased a souvenir glass and enjoyed unlimited tastings. Merci!


There was much alphorn, yodeling, and accordion music to enjoy along with some appetizing farm stands.



Plenty of pleasing sights to experience, both natural and artistic.























And then we came to a fork in the water, not the road, but the water - what does one do?


You look behind you and ask this chap, Charlie Chaplin, to be exact.























And he refers you to this...


Thanks Charlie!

Charlie Chaplin lived with his family in Vevey for many years and passed away here in 1977.  
He ended his autobiography with these words: 
I sometimes sit out on our terrace at sunset and look out over a vast green lawn to the lake in the distance, and beyond the lake to the reassuring mountains, and in this mood think of nothing but enjoy their magnificent serenity.


We continued our walk along the water's edge and through the hillside of Vevey to Montreux where we took a cogwheel train to Rochers-de-Naye, a mountain peak within the Swiss Alps. 



View of the train station at the top. You can stay overnight in the white yurts on the left, that evening a wedding party had rented out the entire space for their celebrations.


The views were epic.



It was just us and the animals up there!

Rochers-de-Naye is also known as Marmot Paradise because of all the marmots that live on the mountain. Sadly, they've created small enclosures where you can view these critters up close, not what you'd call a paradise exactly.
The mountainside had a smattering of bell-wearing sheep. These two kept a close eye on us, making sure we weren't going to bother them or take any of their food. I think there's plenty of grass to go around! 




I was pretty stoked to be in the Swiss Alps for the first time.


Brian was too. 


Wonderful views of Lake Geneva on the last train down. 



After a chilly afternoon in the mountains, we just had to enjoy our first order of Swiss fondue back in Vevey! We had the mixed variety called, Moitié-moitié (or half 'n half): Gruyère and Fribourg vacherin.

Unbeknownst to us the proper way to be served Swiss fondue is by a Swiss soldier and a flag-waving chef whilst a Swiss march blares over the restaurant speakers! 
Thanks to Les Trois Sifflets restaurant for a memorable first fondue experience!

 
  
The following day we tried walking off some of that cheesy goodness as we headed to Chateau de Chillon on Lake Geneva looking out towards the Alps. 


First reference to this castle dates as far back to 1150 when it came under the control of the Counts of Savoy. 


It was only fitting that Brian honored the castle's great history by doing this. 




Lord Byron made the castle famous when he wrote the poem, The Prisoner of Chillon, about François de Bonivard, a Genevois monk and politician who was imprisoned here from 1530 to 1536.





The castle left us with not only the knowledge of historical battles and key figures associated with Chillon but also with this little gem to ponder...hmmm...we think it's debatable.


We wrapped up our weekend in Vevey drinking in the lush fruits of the hillside of Lavaux. The Lavaux region to the west of Vevey exudes extraordinary beauty with its perfectly carved stone walls weaving in and around manicured vineyard terraces. 

This is the Land of the Three Suns, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, dating back almost 1,000 years.



The vineyards of Lavaux are comprised of over 10,000 terraces spread over 40 levels.


We visited Lavaux Vinorama and experienced a wonderful flight of local wines.


According to the winery, the king of the region is Chasselas, a white mainly Swiss grape variety, also used in the production of wine in Alsace, Savoy and Burgundy. 


We couldn't help but take a few home for ourselves: a Gamay, a Chardonnay, and a Merlot. 


For all the charm, breathtaking vistas, and romantic walks along Lac Leman...
merci beaucoup Vevey!!!