The Easter weekend was almost upon us and Brian had just returned from two long weeks in Uganda. We were still sorting out our plans for the four day weekend when he arrived the afternoon on Thursday, the day before our holiday began. We had at least settled on heading to the coast for a beach getaway but hadn't figured out exactly how we were going to get there.
All the plane flights were booked up by those who plan in advance but given that Team Feth likes to live on the edge of excitement and glide on wings of unpredictability we were up for the challenge. After some internet searching and various phone calls to taxi drivers for rates we settled on taking an overnight train from Nairobi to Mombasa and then hiring a taxi to Diani Beach - our final destination.
Reservations were made for a small one bedroom villa near the beach, train tickets purchased and bags packed full of beach attire. We arrived at the train station at 6pm and departed promptly, as promised, at 7pm. We paid for a room to ourselves, and as we settled into our cozy nook, I immediately had flashbacks of the images created while reading Agatha Christie's Murder on the Orient Express, a wonderful mystery novel set on a train just like ours. Now of course I was hoping that no murder would take place but I was hoping we'd meet some interesting passengers. We were not disappointed.
The restaurant car was placed right next to ours so as the dinner bell rang around 8pm we were quickly able to make our way down the narrow hall to dine during the first seating. Because we were only two and the seats were four people to a booth we were seated across from a couple. We made our greetings and learned we would be having dinner with the 'Great Kahleed' and his Kenyan girlfriend. This 'Great Kahleed' was an African-American man in his early 60s who traveled to the African continent once a year to purchase crafts to sell at concerts back in the US.
Our conversation was one for the books. He introduced himself as a 'good Muslim' not one that would blow himself up along with anyone or anything else. He was a former member of the Black Panthers and knew Malcolm X's brother. He mentioned that he was trained to enter a room and know about everything and everyone in it. He had the ability to 'take care of things' so we needn't worry about the rest of our time on the train, he had it all under control. Brian and I weren't really sure how to respond thinking this guy was definitely packing so we just said nice to meet you.
As our dinner was served, he continued to talk about some of the civil rights events in the 1960's and his experiences like the Watts riots in Los Angeles. He was well travelled throughout Africa so we chatted about our time in Ghana, Togo, Uganda and of course Kenya. He told us about his work back home in Hollywood. He was in charge of the lighting on movie and commercial sets and didn't care much for movie stars, he thought they were all messed up.
This 'Great Kahleed' was a lover of mo-town music evident in the fact that he carried around a small stereo and played it for everyone to hear. He even played it at dinner. We were thankful it was Smoky Robinson coming out of those speakers and not something unbearable. An Austrian guy across the aisle dug the music and let the 'Great' know, which pleased him very much.
He continued to tell us about his side business and his wife back in the states. That's when we put two and two together realizing that was his mistress seated next to him. Towards the end of dinner he asked us not to tell on him.
We said our goodbye's and headed back to our room to read a bit before bed. A few minutes later we could hear the swoons of the The Temptations' My Girl and quickly realized the 'Great' was in the room right next door. As the train rocked us into relaxation the sounds of the oldies eased our minds, an annoyance but a pleasant one - it could have been much worse.
15 hours later, most of which we slept, we pulled into the train station in Mombasa. We had been up since about 7am for breakfast and to wave back at all the small children who find the passing of the train their only amusement for the day. We stepped out into the bright sunshine and felt the heat of the weather which was siginificantly warmer than Nairobi.
We found our taxi driver; a ferry ride and two hours later we were at our villa in Diani Beach called Amethyst House. Unfortunately the house didn't quite meet our expectations given what we were paying but the amazing beach and wonderful seafood restaurants nearby more than made up for it.
Diani Beach is what you dream about when you've been stuck working long hours in a cold office, hunched over a computer in your tiny cubicle week after week and you've just about had it with the free stale coffee. This is your happy place. The sand is soft molded by years and years of washed up coral. The water is the most amazing shade of blue your eyes have ever seen. And the warm sea breeze carries away any amount of stress you've ever endured in your life. This is Diani, welcome.
So you can imagine what we did all weekend: ate and swam. We didn't even partake in any activities we just let the ocean entertain our every whim and the scrumptious menus of the Blue Marlin and Almanara Resort fulfill our every need. It was like another honeymoon, it was heaven.
Unfortunately the real world always come knocking on your door just when you feel you've gotten the hang of the new beach bum lifestyle. Monday afternoon came around and it was time to pack up our things and say goodbye to paradise. But we didn't really say goodbye we said see you later; this is not a place you can visit only once in your life.
On the train in our room
Morning on the train to Mombasa
Children running towards the train to wave at the passengers
View from the train
Diani Beach
Team Feth
Our flight back to Nairobi in a small 12 seater - we sat right behind the pilot
